20 Shades Of Beauty is a personal imagemaking system that integrates one’s authentic traits (coloring, geometry and mannerism) in 20 distinct style identities. It can also be used for branding. I developed this structure in order to consolidate 2 classic exemplary personal analysis theories (Caygill and Kibbe) into one, for easy use and understanding and as an initial step of personal analysis.
20 Essential Groups
First: 4 Dominant Color Identities
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Autumn
Second: 5 Dominant Style Identities
- Dramatic
- Natural
- Classic
- Romantic
- Gamine
These are the dominant traits that have to be defined for each woman. I decided that neither Ethereal/Angelic nor Ingenue will pass into the basic traits, because the system is for adult women, and not for angels or children.
The Supporting Essence Framework
There can be only one Dominant Trait, however most women usually have traits that support and ornate the dominant ID, serving for it to best come alive in a person. It is only by taking those supporting essences into account can we create a fully unique style for a woman which will bring back her most charming, authentic, “beautiful rare bird” self, no matter her age, race, or size.
Within each of twenty groups, we have a vast amount of possible sub-types. Most supporting essences repeated the main essences, plus we have two more: Ethereal and Ingenue, which are necessary for women that additionally posses either very magical or very girlish innocent qualities.
7 Possible Sub-types Supporting the Dominant ID:
- D (Dramatic)
- N (Natural)
- C (Classic)
- R (Romantic)
- G (Gamine)
- E (Ethereal)
- I (Ingenue)
These sub-types make women in each group very diverse. This does not mean that 20 Shades are not functional—they definitely are, as they are essential. However, for a truly unique look each woman has been assigned by Mother Nature, we need to dig deeper into her color and style essence
The Improved Style Formula
How many sub-types do we have for style? Some stylists prefer to use David Kibbe’s system with 13 types, some pure, some nuanced. Other stylists, like Rachel from Truth-Is-Beauty blog, work with what she calls Blends: either 1, 2 or a mix of 3 identities in one person. Her system has made personal analysis much more nuanced than Kibbe, although David Kibbe is a pioneer, and many similar styling systems basically originated from his simple but powerful idea of a woman’s geometry influence on style.
Combinatorically speaking, if we have 7 main IDs, plus all doubles and triples, we arrive at a total of 63 IDs. Beautiful names like “Amethyst Sunset Warrior” are awesome, but let’s be realistic: a woman just wants to know what to shop for. Colors and styles. That’s all. Nobody in a shop will be able to help about any warriors or nymphs! 😊
The Dominant-Last Formula
After practicing the 20 Shades approach, I noticed that I can’t arrive at a good formula if I don’t define a Dominant Trait first. There can be only ONE dominant style essence for a person.
Therefore, in 20 Shades, we place the Dominant ID as the LAST letter of style. For example:
- D-R (Theatrical Romantic in Kibbe): A delicate charmer like Rihanna or Joan Collins
- R-D (Soft Dramatic in Kibbe): A monumental Diva like Jessica Rabbit or Barbra Streisand
These are VERY different expressions!
If we have 3 IDs, the order continues with range in mind. For example, Classic-Romantic-Gamine will have more importantly Romantic expression than Classic expression.
Examples in Practice
Singular, pure dominant traits are quite rare:
- Grace Jones: Pure D (Dramatic) in Cool Winter
- Amanda Seyfried: Pure R (Romantic) in Light Spring
Complex formulas create extraordinary style:
Nicole Richie: Dominant Gamine supported by Dramatic structure with underlying Natural essence—creating her unique “striking detailed boho” style
The higher the number of identities assigned, the more eclectic, unexpected and extraordinary your style becomes. It’s harder to pull off, but gives you more space to play.
12 Color Groups
When talking to clients, I prefer directional color analysis terms: dark, muted, soft, cool, etc. However, for structure, I use the 12-tone (Sci/ART) color system that divides each main season into 3 subseasons:
- Light/Tinted
- Dark/Deep/Shaded
- True/Pure/Clear
- Soft
Example: Soft Autumn = neutral to warm, muted (not bright), and medium in shade (not too light, not too dark).
Important: Unlike style IDs, color IDs do not mix. All clients need is an exact description, in normal plain words, about the qualities of colors, patterns and contrast. Lots of words and, more importantly, lots and lots of pictures!
How I Analyze
Simple goal: Make a woman look like only she can look.
When I study celebrity styles, I don’t merely search for what looks good or bad on them. I try to see what style ONLY SHE could possibly pull off this way. What look makes her truly unique. A rare bird of paradise. Exciting and unforgettable. Perfect example: The unforgettable Elie Saab gown Halle Berry wore to her Oscar-winning ceremony.
Dark Autumn, Romantic-Gamine—she wore those deep serious muted colors combined with playfulness and sexiness like no other. It was an unbelievable job from her stylist.
The Magic Formula
Where coloring, geometry and mannerism (Soul) all shine together, that is YOUR UNIQUE AND BEST STYLE.